Something Missing

            Or too much happening,

            There’s a past here,

            There it was just the beginning.

            Work,

            Planning,

            Looking toward the future,

            It’s easy to miss the present.

            That’s it,

            That’s what I see missing,

            Our present.

Ghana and You Video

This semester I spent time interviewing other students on my CIEE program about why they chose Ghana, what they're learning, and a ton of other questions. Thanks to the Darden Scholarship from Tulane University, I was able to edit the interviews and put together this video titled "Ghana and You."

Thanks to everyone who participated! If you have suggestions or comments please let me know!

Check it out:
https://vimeo.com/42986536

"Obruni" Return

            One whole day back in the U.S. and I want the words to describe this, how it is being back, to be perfect. But here’s the thing, there are no perfect words.

            What I see now, it’s different.

            It’s easy to come back and see the differences,

            It’s easy to come back and be angry at how much we have here,

            It’s easy to come back and forget,

            It’s easy to come back and judge.

            But all of this makes it harder in the end.

            Everyone’s return will be different. This is just mine, my opinion for now.

            I am seeing the similarities.

            I am accepting us for who we are and what we have.

            I am staying open to sharing.

            I am trying my hardest not to judge.

            I prepared for this return, each day teaching myself so I wouldn’t forget.

            It sounds crazy to prepare for coming home but it’s worked.

            This transition, this return, it takes time,

time to process, time to miss, time to be sad,

time to be appreciative, time to remember,

time to write, time to share.

“Claire, the lights are out. I am using one of the candles you gave me,” Grandma told me today. “I miss you and love you.”

Me too.

I will keep writing, Ghana to America, I will share, even when it’s hard.

            Right now.

Winneba

Yesterday morning we left to visit Charlottesville’s Sister City, Winneba. Located along the coast about an hour and a half drive from Accra we decided to take the tro-tro there. We tried to beat the traffic by leaving early and we set off in a cab to pick a tro-tro at Kaneshie Station. After contacting a few people back in Charlottesville we were put in touch with Tina, a delegate for Winneba. She graciously showed us around the town, explaining to us that we had just missed the Deer Hunting Festival, which took place this past weekend, and that we would also be missing the fishermen’s’ celebration in the afternoon. I told her this gave me another reason to come back to Ghana.

While taking us around town she told us that we would pay a visit to the Mayor Chief Executive of Winneba. (Yes, we’re a big deal around here). Then we went to lunch where Tina told us all about the activities of Winneba and about her travels to Charlottesville. Hearing about Charlottesville, being with my mom, and being in Ghana, I felt the sadness about going home go away a little bit. (Don’t worry it’s back today).

We traveled back home in the afternoon and arrived just in time for Grandma’s jollof rice. Nikki, Melissa, and Amy came over for dinner and joined Grandma, my mom, and me. It was an amazing last night. And now we are preparing to leave.

Caught in the in-between, between America and Ghana, between wanting to leave and wanting to stay, between smiles and tears, between dirt and concrete, I have fallen in this gutter of life, and soon I will be on the other side.

Dreams Can Come True

When this song came on in the tro-tro on the way to the Volta Region I couldn’t resist singing along to a song I grew up singing in my living room. From my living room to the tro-tro stop “Living Room” my dream of coming to Africa has come true.

These past four months have truly been a dream come true. Grandma asked me the other day where I will travel to next. When she asked me that question I didn’t know my answer. I’ve always said “I want to go Africa” and now I am here. “I am sure Kenya,” is what she told me. Perhaps. But Ghana will be on my mind, the possibilities are endless.

The possibilities are endless because I have had such immense support coming here, being here, and I know that once I return I will have many people to thank. This is where it starts.

Dreams are possible,

With family,

With friends,

With people you meet along the road.

They come true because of you,

Because you reach out and touch people,

And those people want to be right beside you,

And you let them,

Because you know that without them,

Without them you would still be dreaming.

Thank you,

For reading,

For following,

For praying,

For thinking of me,

For all of the support,

For being there,

Because knowing there are people reading,

It keeps me writing,

It helps me grow,

It allows me to share.

The hardest part is yet to come.

I know this,

And I am ready.

This is not where it ends.

Role Reversal

The electricity went out after we returned from church yesterday, early in the afternoon. Claire had plans to go out in the evening with friends, but did not want to leave me in the house alone without electricity (Felix and Grandma had also gone out to visit her daughter). After considering the options, we decided to go to the A&C Mall together where she would meet friends after setting me up in the Koffee Lounge to order my dinner and watch Blood Diamond on her computer. I joked that this completed the mother/daughter switch as I felt like she needed to plug me into a movie and give me a juice box. She even came back to check on me once during the evening to make sure that I was okay.

As I sat in the café watching the movie with earplugs, I realized how much I was enjoying this new role. Claire has been completely in charge of everything – where we go, bargaining with the taxi drivers, exchanging the money, keeping the money and giving me 5 cedi when I leave her for a few minutes to buy water. She even asked me for the change!

It has been a fun week in Ghana with Claire. We have two more days here and I know that Claire will be very sad to leave. I can see why.

First Time, Last Time

“Three nights left under the mosquito net,” my mom said to me this morning. Wait, what am I going to do without the mosquito net? Without the gate to the house? Without guard dogs? What is it going to be like?

These last few days are going by too quickly. And yet, having my mom along has opened my eyes yet again. New tastes, new sights, new things to write home about – everything I have missed explaining, that I have become accustomed to, that has become a part of my everyday life. It’s only when you are holding hands with your mom walking next to the gutter, and you next to the cars flying by, that you remember that it can be scary, that it is exciting, and it is a time that you will never forget.

So when my mom asks if it’s okay to take pictures in the market, I have to look through a new lens, change the shutter speed, focus in on what’s around us, and try to keep up with my fast-walking, wonderful mom.

These are my last times in Ghana and my mom’s first. Saying goodbye is easier when you have your mom sleeping in bed next to you under the mosquito net (though not when the power is out, then it’s just too hot). I couldn’t have asked for a better ending.

Wet White Women

Today was another adventure in Ghana. Grandma wanted to take us to her village, which is in the Eastern region so Felix drove the three of us to Odumase Krobo. Anytime you get into a vehicle whether it is a taxi, a trotro, or a car, it’s dangerous. I have found that everything in Ghana is slow except for the driving! On a two-lane road, people will pass you on the right or the left.

We arrived safely at grandma’s family home and had lunch that grandma had packed. Afterwards we drove to a more remote part of the village to go to the market. Grandma, Claire, and I walked through the market as Grandma wanted to buy us beads that her village is known for. The market was a maze of hundreds and hundreds of shacks with people selling many different things. We were also the only white people, as this village is more remote and not likely to have any tourists.

As I sat down to have my necklace made, a storm approached and it began to rain. Claire and Grandma joined me under the tin roof and then the deluge began. There was driving rain for about an hour. The tin roofs were coming undone as the wind was really strong and I was keenly aware of how dangerous this could be. Some of the stands began to collapse from the wind as well. As Claire and I stood together wrapped with grandma’s beautiful Ghanaian fabric to protect us from the rain, we realized that we were both frightened at what might happen.

The rain finally let up to a drizzle and we began the walk back to the car. This entailed walking through what was previously a dirt path, but was now a river. Water was up to our ankles at one point. As we carefully traversed this new path we realized that people were talking about us and laughing. Grandma said that they found it funny to see two white women soaked from the rain walking through the market. As we passed hundreds of Ghanaian women, they looked at Grandma then at us and pointed and laughed.

What an adventure!

At the market

After the storm!

From the Volta Region

We left yesterday morning, took a taxi to Madina, and then an air-conditioned trotro to Hohoe. It was Claire’s first time in an air-conditioned trotro! It was a 3½ hour ride to HoHoe and then a 30-minute taxi ride to Wli. We had lunch at our hotel (which consisted of 5 rooms), and then hiked the mountain to the waterfall. Wli waterfall is the tallest waterfall in Western Africa. It was truly beautiful. After a hike down, we showered and got ready for dinner. We were the only ones for lunch and the only ones for dinner. It was very relaxing.

In bed by 8:10 AND we slept until 6:30! Sleeping is good in Ghana. We found a trotro right away and got on back to Hohoe. Some trotros stop to pick people up along the way and can also stop to pick up things to take to the market. On one of these stops, our trotro was parked on the left side of the road loading up large bags of something. There was another trotro speeding down the road towards us (not uncommon) and they swerved to our left to pass us, but there was a taxi coming from the other direction and they crashed! Fortunately no one was hurt. There was much yelling and pointing and probably cursing (but since it was in Ewe I can’t be sure).

After about 20 minutes they must have worked things out and we were on our way to HoHoe. In Hohoe we got another trotro (not air-conditioned) back to Madina. It was a 4-hour trip as we had many stops. One stop was at a check-point where police were stationed. They made all 15 of us get out (Claire said it was because of us) and proceed to another area. Everyone got through without incident except for us. We were stopped by the police in their camouflage, boots and guns. They wanted to see our passports, which we did not bring because we were not traveling outside of Ghana (Claire had an attitude about this which the popo did not appreciate). After questioning us about this they let us go and we boarded the trotro back to Madina. Finally a taxi back home and here we are…

At Wli Lower Waterfall

Our African Oasis

School Bus Tro-Tro

This trip started off waiting for a taxi at the end of my road. As we were waiting one came by with a monkey riding in the passenger seat – what?! While I was astonished, mom thought nothing of it, as she said, “I didn’t know, it could’ve been normal.”

Monkey in the passenger seat,

Air-conditioned trotro,

“Dreams Can Come True” playing on the radio.

Rushing waterfall,

Groundnut soup,

Taking us to another world,

Far away,

Far removed,

Peaceful.

Until…

The school bus trotro,

Thought trotros were invincible,

Turns out, accidents can happen anywhere,

Simply bystanders to the yelling match,

“Don’t worry they don’t have guns,”

I told her.

Not understanding the language,

Some things remain unknown,

Fall asleep, wake up,

This is it – the riding of the trotro.

Made it back,

All in all,

Oh.

And my attitude,

Asking for passports,

Should have just apologized,

Oh well,

That is life,

Bumps and all.

Four Months

Ghana Inspired Me:

To teach a class of thirty-five students,

To raise my hand in a class of four hundred,

To send pen pal letters across an ocean,

To play guitar in a crowded restaurant,

To create a video of our experiences,

To write,

To run,

To not look back,

To be present,

To be creative,

To get involved,

To make new friends and new family,

To open up

In this beautiful place,

Challenging,

Motivating,

It has become a new home.

Ghana.

Inspired.

Me.

Where to Get Water

A slower day in Ghana, thank goodness. Claire and I visited with the preschool children this morning where she read them many stories. We gave the teachers many books and school supplies from the students at Stone-Robinson and Charlottesville Catholic School. Grandma and the teachers were very happy.

In the afternoon we took a taxi to Osu where we shopped at the street markets and bargained for things that we wanted to purchase. It was a hot day so it was nice to sit down and have lunch in an air-conditioned place. Afterwards we did something very American and took a taxi to the Accra mall and saw a movie – The Avengers. Very relaxing.

It is easy to get overwhelmed by the number of cars, always honking, the number of people walking on the street, selling things on the side of the street, or walking up to you to ask you to buy something, the trash and rubble, the noise, and the heat.

Most amazing is the people selling things while walking through the traffic. While we were sitting in the taxi today, people walked by selling the following items from on top of their heads: handkerchiefs, toilet paper, water, plantains, fish, q-tips, magazines, CDs, maps, toiletry items, peanuts, sunglasses, bubble machines, phone credit, sandals, watches, nail clipper sets, DVDs, and onions. Claire was disappointed that we didn’t see the tummy trimmer (as seen on TV) like she has seen previously. Maybe tomorrow.

As in Virginia, I am always thinking about drinking water so when we left this morning I asked Claire if I should bring some water to which she responded, “We can always buy water off someone’s head.” Welcome to Ghana.

Reading at the nursery

                                                      Walking through Osu

From America to Africa in 11 hours

It was a perfect ending and a perfect beginning. Sam drove me to the airport, helped me carry my two 50-pound bags of luggage, assisted with the check-in (yes I did have to remove one heavy item from one bag to get it under 50 pounds), and walked me to the furthest point that he could in the airport. With a wonderful hug and an “I love you mama”, he sent me off to Ghana.

Several hours later I arrived at the Kotoka airport. After being met by the health officials to make certain that I had my yellow fever vaccination (that’s another story), going through immigration, then customs, I arrived at the front of the airport where Claire was waiting for me. I could not have been any happier to see her. After a long overdue hug and a few tears, Claire said that we needed to move along as we were blocking other people from leaving.

We stepped out into the warm African air and Claire began to talk with taxi drivers about a fair price to get home. She was not happy with the prices that she was quoted and so we walked down the road until she got a taxi driver who she thought would charge a reasonable price. Well that led to Claire arguing with the taxi driver for most of the ride home. At one point she said to him “You are charging me the obruni price!” I must admit that I was happy to see my daughter going head to head with a Ghanian taxi driver. This was a new Claire!

Today was filled with new experiences. I rode in a trotro and a shared taxi; ate plantains and jollof rice, a rice ball in ground nut soup, and red-red for dinner. So basically all new foods. And all delicious.

It is a role-reversal to be here with Claire. I rely on her entirely to tell me what to do. She is the native and I am the visitor. She is completely at home walking on the dirt roads, hailing a trotro, negotiating with taxi drivers, and navigating the dangerous roads to get where we need to be. She is leading and I am following.

I like this journey with Claire.

New Arrival!

Right off the plane, ready for Ghana?

Finishing

This past week has flown by – from finishing classes and exams to preparing for goodbyes, it hasn’t been easy.

On Tuesday I went to Tot To Teen, my first time back since the break, and found out that the teacher I was with had been moved to class two. I decided to stay with her as they’ve changed the upper class schedule and I would only be there for two days. I enjoyed being with the younger students but missed my other students (yes, even the rambunctious ones).

The rest of the week I was busy preparing and causing accidents. Let me explain…

A taxi driver was attempting to get my attention and when I shook my head no he started to turn at the intersection I was crossing at. When he saw me crossing he thought that I was coming towards him and he stopped short. Thus the car behind him hit his taxi, oops.

Then I was sitting in Luscious doing some work and the power went out. I realized I should unplug the cord from my computer to avoid any power surge but didn’t think about unplugging it from the wall. Next thing I knew there was smoke coming from my charger, oops. The charger is now finished.

Back to the rest of the week…

Yesterday Grandma and I went to Makola Market in Accra (what an adventure). I hadn’t been shopping in a market before with a Ghanaian so it was interesting to see how the sellers treated her. However, it wasn’t an easy shopping day with me around because I tend to increase the prices by being white. So, when we were finally getting a taxi to leave she made me stand away from her so that she could get a taxi back for the price she wanted.

And on to this coming week…

Tomorrow is my last exam.  And I can’t wait until tomorrow afternoon, for my mom to arrive!

(Perhaps I will have a guest blogger this next week). 

Two Weeks

Careful not to step too close,

Afraid to fall into the unknown,

Watching everything around me,

Learning from being here,

Going there,

Seeing everything in between.

Here now,

It’s familiar,

Still careful not to step too close,

Open gutter,

Dirt blowing,

Taxi honking,

“obruni”

                                                            Watch your step,

The road is getting shorter,

Being paved here,

Still dirt there,

Cars coming from every direction,

Thoughts racing,

Driving by,

Not ready yet,

To say goodbye,

To leave this place,

It will have to wait.

Grandma Gritty

It was her birthday yesterday. This post is for her - this amazing woman that has become a part of my life, who has opened her home and her heart for me.

She shares her stories, her knowledge, her wisdom, her pain and her joy with me.

She has taught me how to forgive, how to let go, how to trust that I am not alone.

She has given me a home, a place that I look forward coming back to after a long day, and love, that keeps me walking out the door every day. “Take care.”

She has cooked me some of the best Ghanaian food, always making sure that I am well fed and enjoy the food I am eating.

She has been a mother to me, looking out for me, caring for me, being concerned about me.

She is an inspiration to me, as a wife, a mother, and a teacher.

One day I will come back to Ghana for her and her family.

But before then we will meet again soon in the U.S.

Grandma Gritty, thank you.

Children of Ghana

Exams - Why not?

“The exam is not coming on today.”

Oh, okay.

Wait, what?

Yes, it happens – things get changed, mixed up, moved, and the world does not stop.

This is one of the many things I have learned during my time in Ghana.

Let it go – the bad feelings, the frustrations, the anger. Why not?

Yesterday was the beginning of my exams. Only two weeks of exams and my studying at the University of Ghana is finished. Can’t believe it.

I took my Development Studies Final yesterday afternoon. Tomorrow I will take my drumming final (a little nervous about this one). Then on Saturday I will have my last Twi exam. Then one presentation, one final paper, and one final exam in “The Context of Development and Underdevelopment” left in the last week.

This Saturday night is our Farewell Dinner, the beginning of the end.

Let it go – the sadness, the nervousness, the fears. Why not?